Kevin Rutherford MIC

Hill and climbing conditions for the Scottish Highlands.

Winter Courses - Winter Skills, Winter Mountaineering, Winter Climbing & Norway Ice based in Rjukan

Tuesday, 18 December 2012

Northern Corries

I spent Sunday and Monday working with returning clients Imperial College Mountaineering Club. Both days were spent in Coire an t Sneachda which was very busy and wintery. This is a bit of a fast track 2 days for the club members who all have summer rock climbing lead experience and some winter skills but not the norm for myself with regards to ratios. After the 2 days they then team up with more experienced members of the club and go off climbing being "competent 2nds"

Day 1, Weather and avalanche forecast, basic winter skills, movement skills on steeper ground, snow anchors, avalanche awareness, safe route choice. We spent a bit of time placing dead men/boys which is appropriate just now for the snowy conditions.
Day 2, We ascended Fiacaill Couloir in 2 teams looking at constructing winter anchors, rock, ice and snow. There is a bit of ice in the narrows which was great for looking at ice screw belays and placing screws on the lead and then a romp up the very snowy top half. We finished the 2 days navigating off the plateau in white out.

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