Kevin Rutherford MIC

Hill and climbing conditions for the Scottish Highlands.

Winter Courses - Winter Skills, Winter Mountaineering, Winter Climbing & Norway Ice based in Rjukan

Sunday, 17 January 2010

Original Route, Sneachda

Sorry i forgot my camera this morning.
The ski road was still shut this morning but the hill staff have been beavering away, the road and ski centre will hopefully be open Monday/Tuesday?
Jane and I walked into Sneachda this morning after a sneeky lift from a Glenmore Lodge minibus which took us up to the Ciste carpark, thanks Mike. We had to put crampons on not far from the Ski area.
The thaw over the last couple of days has been replaced by some settled weather and cooler temperatures leaving the corries in great condition. We climbed Original Route IV/5 on Alladins buttress in 3 pitches before abbing off into Alladins Couloir. There are fresh pockets of windblown snow in the gullies and on the aprons which require caution but the buttresses have reverted back to their pre Christmas conditions, covered in neve and ice.
Pros - the route felt like III/4, Cons - gear and belays are hard to find.
The climbing is great though.
The Mess of Pottage is still buried after the week of SE winds, and the approaches look interesting!

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