Summer/Autumn rock climbing

A few more photos of the great weather we had over the Summer and into Autumn. Climbing courses with Glenmore Lodge and Scott Flett a returning client.

Intro Climbing

Glenmore Lodge weekend in the Northern Corries. Saturday, Twin ribs and the Fiacaill Ridge and then the Fiacaill Couloir on Sunday. Alpine conditions, very quiet with still alot of loaded looking slopes and some spooky snow just below the entrance to the couloir. Great weather, great company, great way to finish off the winter work.

JPEG 13 lucky pair having just descended the Goat Track!?

 

Business as usual, wind machine on full

Back working in the Cairngorms today with Glenmore Lodge on the Journey day of a WML training course. Navigation, group management on steeper group, route choice, avalanche awareness, steep ground scenarios alot to cram into poor conditions on the hill. Plan A of a journey in and around the Fiacaill ridge was scuppered when we were turned around on the top part of the ski road so Plan B was a journey in and around the Ciste ridge. Very windy all day, with lots and lots of snow getting shifted around, looked a bit like a river at times.

Rjukan

Ive just returned from Rjukan, spending a very enjoyable week with Stephen and Martin. Not the usual trip for Rjukan which is usually a guided climbing week, both Stephen and Martin had climbed in winter before and were on the sharp end on day 3 after 2 days of initial instruction. Great weather, cold -14 to -3, brittle ice and very quiet venues, great! The new ice park (man made) which has been set up at the carpark side of  the Vemork bridge is very impressive and just adds to the variety of venues already available.

2 Damp, 1 Dry

I spent Thursday working for Cairngorm Mountain Guides climbing in Coire an t Sneachda. Chris and friends were up in Scotland for a few days climbing and were looking for a days refresher before they climbed some routes themselves. We climbed Pateys, Mirror Direct and then the direct start to Hidden Chimney. A cold front past through during the day which provided a damp finish, good ice throughout.

Saturday and today i have been guided climbing with returning client Colin. We gambled on Saturday and headed into Loch Avon where we climbed Route Major on Carn Etchachan, we finished directly with 2 pitches via The Bastile/Kremlin/Red Guard. The freezing level was just above the tops, a bit thin in places lower down but still holding onto some good ice, all turf frozen. Another damp finish to the day navigating back over the plateau.
Today we climbed Fluted Buttress direct until the junction with Wavelength and then finished up Wavelength, the lower slopes had a bit of soft snow but again most of the route still holding onto a lot of good ice even although the freezing level was just above the tops, very Alpine.

Off to Rjukan next weekend.

Update

Sometimes words are not required......

Busy in the Cairngorms

Busy on the hill with groups and lots of folks getting out making the most of the excellent wintery conditions.

The downside last weekend were the 2 avalanches in Sneachda where all 5 escaped off the hill and can return another day. However, the wind machine was turned back on today along with more snow than forecast, im sure the avalanche forecast will again require some thought/interpretation if your planning a day out this week coming. If you dont understand the forecast and the observed forecast and cannot identify on the hill what SAIS are referring to, spend as little as £45 and go on a course, it could potentially save your life.It also helps to actually read the avalanche forecast.....

http://www.sais.gov.uk/latest-news.asp

http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/course-wintermountain-skills-index.asp

Ive been working at Glenmore Lodge over the last wee while on winter mountaineering and skills courses. A few photos below.