Busy in the Cairngorms

Busy on the hill with groups and lots of folks getting out making the most of the excellent wintery conditions.

The downside last weekend were the 2 avalanches in Sneachda where all 5 escaped off the hill and can return another day. However, the wind machine was turned back on today along with more snow than forecast, im sure the avalanche forecast will again require some thought/interpretation if your planning a day out this week coming. If you dont understand the forecast and the observed forecast and cannot identify on the hill what SAIS are referring to, spend as little as £45 and go on a course, it could potentially save your life.It also helps to actually read the avalanche forecast.....

http://www.sais.gov.uk/latest-news.asp

http://www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/course-wintermountain-skills-index.asp

Ive been working at Glenmore Lodge over the last wee while on winter mountaineering and skills courses. A few photos below.

Wild Wintery Weekend

Just spent a long weekend with returning clients, ELC Hill Walking Club. We spent the first 2 days refreshing winter skills and also to tie in with with wild weather on Friday, the ski road was closed, we walked into the Ciste before being blown back down. We continued the skills theme on Saturday walking into Sneachda, up and over Cairngorm and into Ciste Mhearid. Sunday, we retreated off a very windy and snowy East Ridge on Beinn a Chaorainn and Monday we retreated to the coast at Cummingston for some rock climbing and abseiling. A varied 4 days with the weather dictating things.

Winter Skills

A winter skills weekend at Glenmore Lodge.  

A wild weekend weather wise and the additon of a high avalanche risk on Saturday gave students from Dundee University Rucsac Club and interesting weekend. Lots going on in these conditions and they were definately put out off their comfort zones at times, all good for the learning process.

Saturday was spent in the Ciste ridge area looking at movement skills and cutting, slipping, sliding and stopping. A bit of time was also spent making observations on the avalanche risk and eventually digging into drifts to gather more info on what was happening in the snowpack.

Sunday we battled our way into Coire an t Sneachda where we played the survival game basically trying to keep on the move and staying warm before we ran back over into the ski area. The corrie was very scoured compared to Coire Cas and Coire an Lochain with alot of wind blown snow lurking on leeward slopes and the odd pockets scattered about on other aspects, very gusty.     

Northern Corries

Had a good day today in Coire an t Sneachda with Scott who had booked a days winter climbing. Given the forecast for a wet afternoon and thaw conditions, we were very surprised to find a coolish corrie and firm snow underfoot, the thaw and rain never materialised even when walking out at 4pm. The buttresses have been stripped but still enough to go at in the grade I/III range. A bit of sunshine and blue sky in the afternoon topped the day off.

Happy New Year

Happy New Year, all the best in 2013.

Early start this morning meeting Giles and Iain in Tomintoul at 6am. We started walking at 730am and 2 hrs later we were traversing across the coire on crisp neve. Polyphemus Gully was in good nick considering how early it is in the season, alot of old avalanche debris on the aprons. The 1st pitch was thin and a bit chossy in places but not bad ice just where you needed it, after that we romped up good snow ice turning the cornice on the right. Great day out. Lots of big cornices remain, not the place to be in the forecasted thaw!

Northern Corries

I spent Sunday and Monday working with returning clients Imperial College Mountaineering Club. Both days were spent in Coire an t Sneachda which was very busy and wintery. This is a bit of a fast track 2 days for the club members who all have summer rock climbing lead experience and some winter skills but not the norm for myself with regards to ratios. After the 2 days they then team up with more experienced members of the club and go off climbing being "competent 2nds"

Day 1, Weather and avalanche forecast, basic winter skills, movement skills on steeper ground, snow anchors, avalanche awareness, safe route choice. We spent a bit of time placing dead men/boys which is appropriate just now for the snowy conditions.
Day 2, We ascended Fiacaill Couloir in 2 teams looking at constructing winter anchors, rock, ice and snow. There is a bit of ice in the narrows which was great for looking at ice screw belays and placing screws on the lead and then a romp up the very snowy top half. We finished the 2 days navigating off the plateau in white out.

North West

A few photos from yesterday with Giles and Al. Great to escape from the Northern Corries and even better to receive a text at 9am to say the ski road was closed due to stuck cars. A bit of an adventure with no real plan in place, great day out and the climbing so so.  The routes on Fuar Tholl didnt look in so we just kept walking along the great paths and ended up under the NW face of Sgorr Ruadh after about 7km/2.5hrs. Alot of huming and hawing, we eventually ended up climbing Splinter Ridge III/4 which was snowy, thin, a lot of loose rock and had the odd bit of frozen turf, early season conditions! Definately a venue for later on in the season with some amazing looking routes and great views towards Torridon.